The Gauley and the nearby New River have a very long history, possibly the longest history of any of the rivers flowing in the United States. The poorly named New River, which flows northward before meeting with the Gauley at the headwaters of the Kanawha, is estimated to be flowing in its' current track for the last 65 million years. A trip down the Gauley can reveal over 10 million years of rock layers as it descends 670 feet in just 25 miles.
Both the Gauley and the New River flow unusually for rivers east of the Continental Divide. The headwater of the New River starts a 2,000 mile northward trip in the Blue Ridge Mountains of North Carolina. New River flows north and the Gauley River flows west into the westward flowing Kanawha before meeting with the Ohio River and following a more conventional south and eastward flow on the Mississippi.
Although the Gauley River has always had exceptional whitewater, it ironically owes its' world fame and status to man. In the 1960's the Army Corp of Engineers built a series of dams in the eastern United States for flood control and economic stimulation. The largest earthen dam east of the Mississippi, Summersville Dam built in 1960, holds back the Gauley River in manmade Summersville Lake. Each fall the water in Summersville Lake needs to be drawn down to prepare for the snowmelt and rain that comes in the spring. It is during the fall dam releases when Gauley River Season starts.
Working closely with recreational enthusiasts, local, county, and state officials, the Army Corp of Engineers agreed to do the fall dam releases over six regularly scheduled weekends starting the week after Labor Day. The four-day releases start on Thursday and end on Sunday. Incredible volumes of water rush through huge tubes into the Gauley, creating a wild whitewater experience considered the best east of the Mississippi, and the seventh best in the world. The planning and cooperation worked, and in 1988 the Gauley River National Recreation Area was created. Today Gauley River Season brings over 33 million dollars of revenue to the region.
During Gauley River Season the river is broken up into two sections, the Upper Gauley and the Lower Gauley. The Upper Gauley represents the first ten mile stretch of the river and is a continuous assault of over 50 Class III to Class V+ rapids including the 12 feet drop of Sweetwater Falls.
Whether you are on a commercial tour or running the river in a kayak, standing at the put in at the base of Summersville Dam is an experience in itself. During dam releases the thunder of the water is so loud you can barely here your own thoughts and the ground can literally tremble with the explosive force flowing by you. Over the next ten miles each rapid, fall and hydraulic comes at you like an insane prizefighter throwing an endless series of uppercuts to your head. At the end of the run your legs will be like rubber - not from exhaustion but from the amount of adrenaline flowing in your system. It is the most incredible high you can get without breaking any laws. The Upper Gauley is a very demanding river, commercial tour operators don't allow anyone under 16 and previous documented experience on a Class V river is required.
The Lower Gauley starts at the base of Panther Mountain and flows for 12 miles to Swiss, West Virginia at the western end of the Recreation Area. The river has a completely different personality to its' manically cousin upstream. Through a series of 45 Class III to Class V rapids the river flows more like a roller coaster over hydraulics and huge waves. As you round Koontz Bend the gorge gets deeper and steeper, with impressive bluffs and cliffs. The Lower Gauley isn't without challenges and children under 12 are not allowed on the river.
Of course paddling the Gauley isn't limited to the fall dam releases. Depending on snow and rainfall the spring can be even more intense. Water flow has been known to be four times greater than during dam releases in the spring turning the Gauley into a Class VI challenge meant only for the top paddlers of the world. In the summer, when water flow is at its' lowest, a third more placid section of the Gauley in born. The Middle Gauley, starting west of where the old Carnifex Ferry used to cross the river, is a five-mile stretch of 25 Class II to Class IV rapids. During the fall this section becomes part of both the Upper and Lower Gauley but makes for some excellent paddling.
A whitewater adventure in the Gauley River National Recreational Area is usually taken with one of over a dozen National Park Service approved tour companies. Trips are typically one to two days and offer several different options. Visitors to the area can take a one day trip down the Upper Gauley, the Lower Gauley or if you are in excellent physical shape a demanding trip down the entire 25 miles of the river.
Two day trips offer a couple of unique options. If you have been on Class V whitewater before you can paddle the Upper Gauley for the day and then camp before tackling the lower Gauley in the morning. If you haven't been on whitewater before but still want to tackle the entire river, you can earn your Class V whitewater experience on the Lower Gauley on the first day and test your courage on the Upper Gauley the next.
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